Edward Green Shoe Review – Black Cap Toe Oxford | Kirby Allison
Edward Green Shoe Review – Black Cap Toe Oxford | Kirby Allison
Edward Green Shoe Review – Black Cap Toe Oxford with Kirby Allison
The Edward Green “Chelsea” cap-toe oxford is as classic an English shoe as it comes. A company as old as Edward Green doesn’t become known as one of the world’s greatest English shoemakers without an absolutely exceptional cap-toe oxford.
👞: https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/shoes/chelsea-black-calf-black-82-last.html
A captoe oxford, especially a black captoe oxford, is the most versatile and elegant shoe a man can own. It’s a simple design, lack of brouging, and closed oxford lacing, combine to create a silhouette of unparalleled beauty. This shoe is not subject to the whims of fashion; it will be in style forever. It can be easily worn with a suit, tuxedo, or jeans, and is never inappropriate.
The Chelsea is distinguished with a ‘swan’s neck’ stitch pattern down the facing. This was a detail that John Hlustik, who purchased Edward Green in the 1980’s, revived from shoes Edward Green manufactured in the 1930s. This small design hallmark gives the otherwise conservative captoe oxford an additional visual detail and elegance.
CONSTRUCTION
Edward Green prides themselves on using the highest quality leathers from the uppers to the soles. The uppers are sewn with the highest-grade French and Italian calfskins on the market. Ensuring that the shoes will not only be incredibly handsome from the start, but also age and patina equally well. The uppers are hand-clicked, or cut out by hand, allowing the clickers to avoid any natural blemishes and use only the best areas of the hide.
The outsoles on the Chelsea, and on all Edward Green leather soled shoes, are traditional Oak Bark Tanned leathers are tanned in pits for nine months in a solution of oak, spruce, and mimosa barks. The result is an incredibly durable, water-resistant leather outsole that lasts three to five times longer than ordinary outsoles. Leather outsoles also allow additional breathability, helping the shoe better-regulate moisture and temperature through the day. The result is a leather outsole of unequaled comfort and durability.
Edward Green also builds additional structure into their shoes using leather stiffeners, which are hard leather pieces inserted between the upper and the lining. The additional structure is important not only for creating a more comfortable shoe, especially through the arch but helps control unnecessary creasing, which inevitably makes a pair of shoes look old and worn.
The level of finishing on a pair of Edward Green shoes is as one would expect – exceptional. The outsoles are expertly crafted closed channel stitch with high sole stitch density. Brass heal embellishments, as well as a very nice swan neck stitching. All of the edges and heels are dyed and highly-polished.
The single needle stitching, with its high stitch density, increases the clean lines and formality of this shoe. Each upper is sewn together by hand with incredible precision. Just look at the single-needle stitch density and its proximity to the edge of the cap. It’s nothing short of amazing. One of the advantages of a high-quality, factory-made shoe is, of course, it’s the consistency of construction.
AVAILABLE SIZES AND FIT
One of the great pleasures of owning a pair of Edward Green shoes is that most customers are able to find a really well-suited fit/last combination, which ensures their shoes are as comfortable as they are elegant and well-made. Because we all know that at the end of the day, the true measure of a great pair of shoes is how comfortable our feet are.
Edward Green’s lasts are stylish and well-balanced but have very much been designed with fit in mind. The number 202 is their classic, English last, and is available in the widest number of width fittings: from C through G; the number 82 is a timeless almond last; and the number 915, their widest last, is a more modern-walled almond-toe.
As far as sizing is concerned, it is important to note that UK shoe size ½ size smaller than the equivalent US shoe. So, if you are a 9.5 in an American shoe, such as Allen Edmonds, you would want to purchase a UK 9.0. The same is true for widths. A UK E width is equivalent to a standard US D.
PRODUCT FEATURED IN VIDEO
Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Restoration and Refurbishment https://www.hangerproject.com/kirby-allison-sovereign-grade-recrafting.html
SHOE REVIEW PLAYLIST
RELATED VIDEOS
Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Recrafting Program https://youtu.be/2AzPi21cweM
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You should have a purchase link in description to the shoes on the website of the company you are reviewing (im guessing they aren’t on amazon), gives you revenue and easier for viewers to purchase the items.
I’m sure the companies would give you percentages for revenue you generate for them with a referral for them from your viewers.
Because of you, Preston and David at Vcleat , I now have 5 pairs of quality shoes.. Including 3 Allen Edmonds and a beautiful vintage pair of Keith Highlander shoes recommended by Davids Vcleat site.. Please consider inviting him for one of your shoe shinning/conversation vids.. And of course, all shoe shinning accessories are purchased from you.. Thanks Kirby!
I’ve always thought that the Edward Green Chelsea is, aesthetically, the most "perfect" cap-toe oxford ever designed. From the last shape to the pattern, it’s like the Goldilocks of dress shoes.
Most Edward Green shoes can be made from width A to G without any extra charge, most of the time. H width is available through made to order.
202 has a larger instep and bigger toe box // 82 a snugger fit, lower instep, and the heel is slightly elevated.
Edward Green shoes are the pinnacle of English RTW footwear. They are expensive, but that goes with the quality so it is better to consider them an investment for the long term.
*This video is sponsored by….
https://youtu.be/wWg2S5zNGP4
I was reading that Donald Trump wears only this model.
A great classic shoemaker. I got these 10 years ago. I ended up using them too often/much, so I need to send them to service. But the leather is still perfect!
A https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/galway-rosewood-country-calf-rosewood-64-last.html
Kirby excellent video. One question. Why would you add a rtw black cap toe Oxford when you already have several bespoke options in the collection? It seems like a step back in term of fit
Are these traditionally welted or do they use a canvas gemming plyrib?
One thing I’ve never been clear on: what am I getting extra for £1k at Edward Green vs £400 at Crockett and Jones?
I’ve worn Allen Edmonds for many years. Recently, I’ve started wearing Carminas, which I love. With the Edward Greens costing 2-3X the Carminas, what is difference in construction that justifies the cost difference. I don’t see them as having superior design to Carmina, so I am assuming there must be a difference in construction. Thanks.
Great video. I had to watch again as I bought another pair of Chelseas from today’s private sale…but this time I got the 915 last.
Please review the Berluti alessandro. Thanks!
Thanks for nice videos all the time. I have a question. I wear AE Fifth Avenue US 8.5E and the size and width is perfect for me. What size and width is equivalent for the shoes in the video if the size and width is based on Edward Green official website size choice?
I wear John Lobb City II shoes which I love the most. I also own some Edward Green snuff suede Portland loafers which are butterly soft, literally. I’d love to hear some reviews on pieces I own. Keep up a good work! Cheers! 🙂
Edward Green are the pinnacle of ready to wear footwear. The Chelsea on the 202 last is the best option. Personally, I would like to visit the Edward Green store and ensure that I got the correct fitting size before making a purchase.
Hi Kirby. Informative review.
Have you reviewed any Crockett & Jones handgrade shoes? Something like the Lonsdale or Audley is about half the price of the EG Chelsea. I wanted to understand the differences in the shoe quality relative to the price difference. Would the EG Chelsea be significantly different to a C&J handgrade oxford given its double the price?
Thanks.
on another note, any videos on casual outfits? What do you wear to the gym?
Collar gaps on Allison’s jackets are a legend of interwebz. Where can I purchase a collar gap like that? No price is too high!
Good stuff.
I was surprised to hear you say that these can be worn with jeans. I can’t imagine how these could be worn even with chinos, let alone jeans. They’re ideal to be worn with a dark suit or a tuxedo. Perhaps, too formal for even a blazer/sport coat and odd trousers combination. But that’s just my humble opinion 🙂
Can you please start showing us the interior lining of the shoes? That’s also a very important aspect. Thank you!
Hi Kirby, great video!
A little off topic, how come english derby shoes never have space between the uppers when tied compared with a pair of US made bluchers where there is always seem to be space between the uppers??
Magnificent shoes! The quintessential English oxford!!
Love this intro!
Nice presentation.
Could you please be a little more critical of the reviewed product? Though all of your review videos are produced incredibly well and beyond usual YouTube standards, I always feel like that every shoe you review doesn’t have any flaws at all. I’d be interested to know where Allen Edmonds sacrifices quality when compared to something like C&J. Are there any noticeable shortfalls in any other shoes you review?
Love the shoe shine Sunday series btw
Can you do a review of italian bespoke brands like @bestettishoes ? Please make room for italian craftsmanship in your channel. Thanks
Gotta be part of the 1% to own a pair of EGs.
Gonna wait until UK’s market crash under Brexit to buy an Edward Green
Would you put these ahead of Tricker’s given the price? Are they twice the price better, or just incrementally better?
Oh my gosh!!!
Am I the only one who never wanted this vlog to end?
The only word that comes to my mind after watching this vlog: WOW…..
How come you manage to come out with such high quality, informative videos every now and then?
The English are truly the pioneers when it comes to high quality dress shoes.
Would also love to see a review on some Crockett and Jones straight cap oxford and in different lasts please. Price range for the Crockett and Jones fit perfectly into a pair of entry level shoe.
Allison Kirby is a best comedy hour no Youtube.
Are these your thoughts? Were you paid for this? Just because it felt like you were reading a product promotion rather than a review of the shoes. I love the shoe, but you seemed robotic like these weren’t your own thoughts. No offense intended just curious.
Great Review! I was wondering what the recraft options are from Edward Green and at what price points? Nothing on their website.
Great video! Nice Shoes! 👍🌟
What’s the difference between the 202 Last and the 82 Last? Thanks Kirby
I used to have 12 pairs of EG….(very) unfortunately I had to sell them a few years ago, but they remain my favourite; absolutely exceptional shoes 🙂
Dear kirby,
Thank you again for an exceptional video,
I am planning to buy few pairs,
But just to be sure, can you kindly please explain,
What makes the edward green shoes worth there price?
What makes an edward green an edward green ?
Thank you for making me realize I am more of a Dark Grey / Charcoal suit guy
Great video, Kirby!
11:19 that begs the question: why DOESN’T kirby have a pair of edward greens yet 😉
We have seen dozens of watch vloggers on jewtube lately, now it’s time for shoe porn.
…evidently.
The wealthy don’t buy these, they have custom made.
Click bait is degrading the net.
That really is a lovely show. I think I still prefer Gaziano and Girling, but a beautifully crafted shoe is a beautifully crafted shoe.
On a separate note I’ll be needing a pair of black tie dress shoes in the next year and half. I already have a whole cut oxford from cobbler union un navy, but I’m between buying a pair of Edward Green patent leather opera pumps or a pair of calf skin opera pumps from saint crispins – any thoughts?
Another classic video Kirby pertaining to a classic and iconic style. Great work as usual !
🙂
Great review.
Can you review oxford’s from J. Fitzpatrick .